In talking to Tony Palombino over the past several months about his new BoomBozz Bistro, I expected a lot as the Dec. 4 pre-opening party drew near. I knew it would have a full bar, full table service and an expanded menu including pastas and desserts. He said the outdoor sign would be an eye catcher, and it is: a simple but elegant block-letter display that pops in daylight and at night.

What I didn’t expect was red carpet spilling out over the strip-center sidewalk and doormen welcoming guests: an amusing and unusual touch for a pizza-centered concept.

And I didn’t expect the décor and artwork to be so eye-catching (more on that later). If you know anything about the first two Tony Boombozz Pizzerias, you know the stores are properly utilitarian, but not chic. Even the vast step up in style made at unit No. 4 (Hurstbourne Lane at Westport Rd.) doesn’t compare.

Several of store 4’s color and design elements are integrated into BoomBozz Bistro, and they bond the new to the old without confusing one with the other. In the look alone, Palombino has achieved his goal of opening a more serious restaurant.

His award-winning pizzas remain the concept’s mainstay, but to do something unique, the menu had to broaden, he said, beyond that would could be delivered in a hot bag and a flat box. He also wants to dazzle the palates of dine-in customers, a group traditionally more interested in food as entertainment.

We’ll know what’s on the full menu Dec. 6, when the doors to the new 110-seater (12613 Taylorsville Road in Tyler Center, just north of the Gene Snyder Freeway, 261-0222) open to the public. The pre-opening event for friends, family and media provided only tastes of items provided by servers patrolling the dining room. Slices of BoomBozz gourmet and Neapolitan-style pizzas were passed out along with two bruschetta appetizers, an oven-baked dish of penne (with chipotle-tomato sauce, peppers and cheese), and tiramisu and cannoli for dessert. All good stuff, especially the pasta and the tiramisu.

If you’re a customer of the BoomBozz at Hurstbourne Lane, you’ll be delighted by the vastly reduced noise level. Despite the energetic crowd and a nearly full house, I never had to raise my voice to talk to a dining partner. Some smart acoustic engineering has slain the noise monster ever roaring at BoomBozz No. 4.

As mentioned, the artwork—multiple large and brightly colored scenes of what appear to be Italian communities—is on every wall burnt-orange-painted wall and adds a modest air of sophistication. (I’m fond of the oversize black-and-white photos of Tony and Judy Palombino’s children lining one wall inside BoomBozz No. 4, but they don’t fit the color scheme as nicely as the new art, nor are they as easily duplicated—a necessity for future franchising.)

Any dislikes? Just a minor quibble: the use of “bistro” in the name. Maybe I’m hung up on “bistro” in the European sense: a place where you dress casually and dine on rustic and substantial offerings like roasted meats, fine soups and great bread and pastries. BoomBozz Bistro, on the other hand, is distinctly modern and streamlined and lacks such sturdy menu items.

But is that such a sin to use that descriptor for a pizzeria? Nah. In fact, most would call it smart marketing because it’s unique and few care about such technicalities. Palombino’s message in using “Bistro” conveys one simple idea: “This is not a BoomBozz like you’ve ever experienced.”

And he’s right.