By David Dominé, the Bluegrass Peasant

Bastille Day is over and they celebrated it in high style across the river at the Bristol Bar and Grille’s Jeffersonville location. I checked it out last night and it’s worth the trip to the ‘Ville’s “sunny side.” If you missed it, don’t worry, though, because the French food and wine celebration lasts all week long. Francophile food and wine lovers still have six evenings to enjoy “Bastille at the Bristol” at the Sheraton Louisville Riverside Hotel.

The best part? In keeping with the Bristol’s 30th anniversary wine celebration, all French wines are marked down to wine shop prices and will be available by the glass, bottle and in flights. Beverage director and Master Sommelier candidate, Scott Harper, has come up with a wine list specially selected for connoisseurs of the vine. Choices include Sauvignon Blanc Cheverny “Delaille” Domaine Du Lalvard ’06/’07 from the Loire Valley, Chablis Savary ’06 from Burgundy, and Châteauneuf Du Pape Chateau Gigognan “Vigne Du Regent” ’04 from the Rhone Valley.

All these bottles were passed around at our table, and the Châteauneuf Du Pape seemed to be the biggest hit. The dark notes and robust, rustic flavors of the proverbial “brooding” wine made a fine match with practically all of the French-inspired dishes put together by chef Richard Doering. The Provencal aromas of lavender and garlic stood up perfectly to the fresh cheese, onions and thick bacon or lardons in the Flammkuche appetizer, a hearty quiche-like tart from the Alsace.

When the entrees were passed around the table for the requisite sharing game of musical plates, everyone agreed that chef had successfully pulled off his take on the quintessential French comfort food dish of coq au vin with chicken from the rotisserie stewed with mushrooms, bacon, garlic, onions, and red wine. The tournedos Richelieu, two beef medallions draped in butter-enhanced demi-glace, scored high marks as well, especially with the red-meat lovers who found the accompanying rich flavors of truffles and foie gras a worthy match to the acerbic, fat-cutting tannins of the Châteauneuf Du Pape.

Although tasty, the choucroute garni and its sturdy flavors didn’t go quite as well with the red wines. The hearty dish, representative of France’s German-speaking region, with its sauerkraut garnished with potatoes, sausage, bacon and pork, would have gone better with a crisp Alsatian Riesling or good German beer. Nonetheless, everyone at the table enjoyed all the main courses.

By the time we finished the French artisan cheese plate with fresh and dried fruits, nuts and crackers, no one at the table had room for dessert. Instead, we all ordered snifters of calvados, the famous apple brandy from Normandy, and finished with double espressos. I really had a craving for crème brulee, but that would have been a bit too decadent now, wouldn’t it have? I restrained myself and went home for the evening. Nothing saying I won’t go back later this week, though. Maybe I’ll see you there.