Looking for a little slice of Americana less than an hour’s drive from Louisville?

Head east and try the food at Fava’s in Georgetown. Fava’s is an old-fashioned soda-fountain kind of place that has been catering to hungry Georgetownians since 1910 when Susie and Louie Bertolini Fava opened a confectionery shop on Main Street. Although the establishment no longer specializes in the mouthwatering ice creams and homemade chocolates concocted by the Favas, it has maintained a faithful following nonetheless. Today – and several owners later – Fava’s still attracts crowds of patrons hungry for a taste of yesteryear with its casual, neighborhood atmosphere and American diner classics.

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Jeni and Howard Gruchow bought Fava’s not too long ago and have added their personal touches to the menu, which has grown to more than 100 items and specials today. Aside from the usual suspects such as chicken salad ($3.79), Ruebens ($3.79), BLTs ($3.99) and tuna salad ($3.79), sandwiches include grilled pimento cheese with tomato ($3.25), country ham ($4.99), and po’ boys ($5.95) with catfish, roast beef and shrimp. Also available are several burgers, including the giant Fava burger ($5.99), which is a half pound of beef charbroiled to order and dressed with lettuce, pickle, onion, mayo and tomato. Side items such as the popular home fries, onion straws and fried banana peppers average $1.99, and a humongous order of frickles, or fried pickle slices, goes for $4.95 a basket.

For supper, guests can choose from entrees like the Clifty Farms country ham dinner ($9.69), the Kentucky Hot Brown ($8.95), or the open-faced roast beef sandwich with mashed potatoes and gravy ($6.95). Friday and Saturday evenings see the addition of dinner favorites such as all-you-can-eat catfish ($12.95), ribeye and shrimp ($14.95), and fried chicken ($10.95). For dessert, try a slice of pie ($2.50) or take a whole one home with you ($12.50 for cream pies; $14.50 for fruit).

Some friends and I recently stopped in for lunch at Fava’s, and we all thought it was well worth the hour’s trek from Louisville. The inside, with its bright and cheery colors, is cozy and always jam-packed with friendly locals. The service was excellent and attentive, and – all in all – the food was tasty. One complaint I had – and this is unfortunately a common complaint of mine – was that the tuna salad in the tuna melt (on of my favs!) had way too much mayonnaise in it. Like so many tuna and chicken salads out there, the mayonnaise-laden concoction was goopy (I hate goopy-ness in the kitchen!), messy and tasted – surprise, surprise! – like so much mayonnaise. I’d suggest they cut the mayo proportions in half (at least!) and try to showcase the flavors of tuna. It would be a lot easier to eat, as well.

Breakfast is on the menu, too. For more information call (502) 863-4383. Fava’s is at 159 East Main Street.

by David Dominé, The Bluegrass Peasant