by Tom Johnson
Ville Voice Eats Correspondent

The wine world is basically split into two hemispheres: the brands, which are everywhere all the time and change little from year to year, and small-production, hand-crafted wines that express something beyond a varietal flavor profile.

Fortunately, a few distributors and wine stores are making the effort to bring small production wines to Louisville. That’s why Westport Whiskey & Wine can put together an event like Tuesday’s “Big Red” tasting, which features nine small-production wines you won’t see in the drug store wine aisle.

Here’s the line-up:

AP Vin “Gary’s Vineyard” Pinot Noir 2006 – Gary’s Vineyard is in the Santa Lucia Highlands and may be the top Pinot Noir vineyard in the country. A.P. Vin is Andrew P. Vingiello, who may be one of the top young Pinot makers in the world.

Loring “Russell Family Vineyard” Pinot Noir 2007 – Brian Loring makes a few hundred cases a year of vineyard-specific Pinots that range from fruity and bright to dark and smoky.

Loring “Keefer Ranch” Pinot Noir 2007 – This is one of his smokier offerings, with a few sharp edges that will soften over time.

Red Car “Trolley Car” Pinot Noir 2007 – A Sonoma Coast Pinot that is bigger than most, weighing in at 14.5% alcohol and unapologetically Californian.

Paul Matthew “Ruxton Vineyard” Pinot Noir 2006 – The first vintage of the Ruxton sold out almost immediately. This is the second, and with fewer than 200 cases, it’s going to go just as fast.

Kosta Browne Pinot Noir 2006 – A decision yet to be made is whether the tasting will feature the KB Russian River Valley or Kanzler Vineyard Pinot. I say: who cares? Kosta Brown makes rock-star Pinots that get critical reviews as gaudy as Rick Pitino’s white linen suit.

Red Car “Speakeasy” Syrah 2006– Time to come up out of the Pinot fog, this is a robust-as-hell central coast/Sonoma Syrah. Talk about your big reds: this is one.

Trecini “Rockpile” Zinfandel 2005 – Zin the way God intended from Sonoma’s storied Rockpile Vineyard.

Dark Horse “Treborce Vineyard” Zinfandel 2006 – From Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley, a fitting and jammy ending to one of the best tastings I’ve seen in a long time.

The Big Red tasting is Tuesday, May 19, from 7 to 8 pm. Reservations are highly recommended, as seating is limited to 24 people. The cost is $30. For reservations call 502-708-1313 or email chris@westportwhiskeyandwine.com.

Tom Johnson runs LouisvilleJuice.com, a blog about wine in Louisville.