Wandering about Old Louisville with a healthy appetite in tow, I came upon Amici’ Italian Café at 316 West Ormsby. Previously home to Central Park Café and 316 Ormsby, the quaint old building looks as if it was ripped straight from a European street corner and transplanted into the heart of Old Louisville.

My friend and I sat on the inviting brick courtyard, taking in the sights of the beautiful ferns and the sounds of the soothing chimes. Despite the calming scene, I must report that there was quite a foul stench — think raw sewage — radiating from somewhere outside. I don’t know whether it was coming from the restaurant or somewhere else. I didn’t have the heart to ask the waiter “Pardon me sir, but could you tell me what reeks of shit?” It also turns out that I am a huge wimp.

Despite the issue of the mysterious disgusting odor, the food was not bad. We started out with the Spinach Artichoke Dip. My friend is a self-described fanatic of this stuff, and she called Amici’s version “the second best” she’s ever had. It was good. Big chunks of artichoke hearts and creamy spinach with thin slices of buttery Italian bread made this an enjoyable appetizer.

Staying with the artichoke theme, we both had a cup of the Tomato and Artichoke Soup, The soup was  pretty basic, but infused with pureed artichoke hearts and other vegetables; I think I noticed onions and celery. The soup was good, but came out far too hot. Did I mention that I’m a huge wimp?

For an entrée I had the Gnocchi Agli e Olio, which was superb. It consisted of chewy potato dumplings served over a bed of cooked spinach, peppers and caramelized onions with garlic and olive oil. The dish was fresh and unlike any Italian cuisine I’ve ever had. My friend had the Amici’ spaghetti with Italian sausage and peppers, which was an exciting take on traditional Northern Italian cuisine.

Amici’ would have been a much better experience if the back patio had not emitted a smell resembling a MSD treatment plant. The food was good and original, however, which will most likely warrant a return visit. The bill came to $38 for the both of us, though I’m sure we would have run up a far bigger tab if we had ordered drinks.

Looking for something different to do the weekend of July 12th & 13th?

Old Louisville, one of the largest historic preservation districts in the nation, will be showing off its private green spaces during the 15th Annual Old Louisville Hidden Treasures Garden Tour. While you’re enjoying the spectacular Victorian architecture and shaded walkways, why not pop in for a bite to eat at one of several neighborhood restaurants? With outdoor seating options, these four eateries allow nature lovers the opportunity to enjoy a quick snack or leisurely lunch or dinner out in the open.

Amici’

Located at 316 West Ormsby, and just steps from the opulent mansions of Millionaires Row, Amici’ Italian Café offers out-of-doors seating in a romantic fern-laden brick courtyard where tinkling fountains and chimes put diners at ease. Enjoy the signature drink, the Amici bellini, and choose from a wide variety of dishes showing influences from the north of Italy. Along with your cocktail, try the Prosciutto e melone appetizer, thinly sliced prosciutto wrapped around melon wedges for $6.50, or the antipasto platter ($10.00) with an assortment of cured meats, cheeses and pepperoncini. For a nice summer main course, try the grilled shrimp and scallop risotto ($17.50) or the cheese tortellini with asparagus pesto and grilled chicken ($16.50) Also available is a wide selection of salads, panini, pizzas and soups.

Carly Rae’s

One of the newest restaurants on the Old Louisville dining scene is Carly Rae’s, and the recent arrival of Chef David Clancy and his new menu make it worth the visit. Arguably one of the nicest al fresco locations in the city, the spacious patio at Carly Rae’s has become a favorite with Old Louisvillians, who only need walk a couple blocks down to the casually upscale restaurant at the corner of First and Oak. Perfect for a drink with friends or a weekend get-together with the family, the patio is often full and bustling with neighborhood activity. A variety of trees and shrubs ensure a welcome respite from the July sun, and with its goodly number of tables, it’s not hard to get good outside seating. For those wanting the solace of gleaming hardwoods and cool leather, all you have to do is walk through the nearest door to a spacious, club-inspired lounge with a well-stocked bar. Owners Herb and Gayle Warren are also known for their and involvement in the community.

Third Avenue Café

Sidewalk patio seating for 24 under a towering maple tree ensures a pleasant experience along bustling Third Street at this friendly, neighborhood establishment that specializes in vegan, vegetarian, and non-vegetarian items. All entrees, sandwiches, soups, salads, and desserts are made from scratch on the premises and served up under the motto “Good Karma. Good Food.” Ask Elvis. He’ll tell you all about it. Popular snacks include fried portabella strips with horseradish sauce ($6.50), shrimp cakes ($5.50) and spicy cheese quesadilla ($7.00). Sandwich favorites are the hot turkey melt ($7.95), vegetarian reuben ($7.75), and barbecue tofu sandwich ($7.25). The comfortable interior seats up to 150 people in an eclectic setting that features a large mural of Old Louisville Victorian homes and antique pharmaceutical items reminiscent of the days when the building housed the old Zeiden’s Drug Store.

Buck’s

Buck’s, the latest incarnation in a long line of restaurants that have graced the lower floor of the Mayflower Apartments on Ormsby Avenue, offers outdoor seating under a canopy of shade trees across from some of the largest Victorian mansions in the city. From the abundant vases of white blossoms that adorn the bar to the trademark mismatched antique-shop assortment of china and silverware that set the tables, Buck’s Restaurant and Bar is an Old Louisville original. Definitely one of the pricier eateries in the neighborhood, Buck’s has a diverse dinner menu that makes a slight nod at retro favorites such as oysters Rockefeller ($10.95), Kentucky trout dijonaise ($21.95), and medallions of beef “Henry the Fifth” ($23.95), but fusion-inspired dishes appear as well. Crispy fish with hotsweet chili ($20.95), spicy noodles “Cantonese” ($21.95), and pork and rice pot stickers ($7.95) demonstrate the chef’s adventurous side.

And although the snowy days of December will be far from the minds of most at the summer garden tour, you can get a leg up on your holiday preparations at a special Christmas in July Ticket Sale. After your meal, look for the brightly decorated Christmas tree and Christmas display in front of the Conrad-Caldwell House Museum at 1402 St. James Court.

Old Louisville Holiday House Tour tickets, normally $25, will be offered at a special discounted price of just $15 for the two days of the garden tour. And the best part: everyone who buys a Holiday House Tour ticket at the 2008 garden tour will be entered into a prize drawing for a spectacular Old Louisville weekend-getaway gift basket valued at more than $1,000. The prize package includes two passes to the 3rd Annual Spirit Ball in October, tickets to the 5th Annual Victorian Ghost Walk, and dinner for two at Amici’.

The highlight of the basket will be a two-night stay at one of Herb and Gayle Warren’s award-winning bed and breakfast establishments. Other goodies include Michael Breeding’s Victorian Mansions of Old Louisville DVD, gift cards by Mark and Claudette Rego, and a selection of Happy Balls!, the official candy of Old Louisville. Second and Third Place Prizes will be given away as well. The 32nd Annual Old Louisville Holiday House Tour will take place on December 6th & 7th from noon until 6:00 pm. For more information call (502) 635-5244.