Louisville’s venerated Café Metro is closing this weekend. For good.

The restaurant’s last day of operation will be Saturday, Sept. 19th.  Despite such heroic rescue efforts like Chef Gary Byler, Jr.’s new small plates menu, a more casual atmosphere in its new piano bar, and specially themed events such as the recent Glenlivet Scotch dinner, the 25-year-old restaurant is succumbing to the nationwide decline of fine dining in general.

Given the closure of other fine dining establishments in the area, it shouldn’t come as a surprise, but it’s a tragedy nonetheless.  Café Metro added white cloth respectability to Bardstown Road long before it became a trendy restaurant row, and helped to revitalize what was once a fairly seedy neighborhood corner into a thriving destination for foodies all over town.

The good news is, the Café’s sister restaurant, the Uptown Café, is still a thriving entity.  A bustling lunch crowd, a solid business-oriented clientele and an iconic shrine of “ladies who lunch,” its smaller portions, casual bar and patio dining options continue to serve with style in the current economic climate.

Also in the good news department, owner Nancy Shepherd is apparently already entertaining proposals from other culinary-oriented lessees for the soon to be vacated Café Metro space, and will be able to transfer at least some of her Café Metro employees across the street to the Uptown.

Bottom line, though – if you want to dine at Café Metro one last time, you’d better make reservations for this weekend.

Cue Freddie Mercury and the boys.

“And another one down, and another one down/Another one bites the dust…”

On Thursday, Louisville lost another landmark restaurant with the closing of The Fifth Quarter Steakhouse on Durrett Lane, near the Kentucky Exposition Center and Male High School. The economy gets the lion’s share of the blame for the loss, as well it should. When people are struggling with bills, all of a sudden, the cheeseburger vs. prime rib debate tilts in favor of a more frugal option. Unfortunately for the owners of the Fifth Quarter, the tilt became a slope from which their business could not climb back up.

In the younger days of my first marriage, the Fifth Quarter was the upscale destination of choice for my in-laws. Whenever they were in town, at least one meal was required to be devoured there. My father-in-law came from the old school where you dress for dinner and, since we were putting on our finery, we were also going to eat at the place where he was convinced that the prime rib was best. He liked it so much that I don’t remember him ordering anything else.

I couldn’t really argue the point for two reasons: because it was pretty darn tasty and because he was paying. We always made a show of perusing the menu, but it was almost like an inside joke because we knew what the men were going to order. It just seemed like bad form to not at least give it the once over. Those were heady culinary times. Back then, when my wife and I liked each other, we knew a visit from her parents meant we were going to eat pretty good. Sure, it was back to bologna and dixie loaf sandwiches when they left, but we lived high on the cow until they did. Ironic that the circle has closed back on itself from the late 80s to now.

But the Fifth Quarter did not go gently into that good night. According to the story from WAVE-3, during the past year lunch and dinner crowds have both shrunk. The restaurant took action to try to survive including layoffs and outright terminations. They even introduced all you can eat prime rib, their specialty, an all you can eat salad bar and a buffet at lunch. As evidenced by the closure, none of those measures worked.

So what happens now? Old line culinary landmarks are disappearing at an alarming rate. Yes, the Fifth Quarter Steakhouse was handicapped by being aligned with an upscale audience that is increasingly being forced to watch it’s pennies, but what happens when all of our old school local flavor disappears? Luckily, we’ve got some openings and expansions that we’re hoping work so now really is the time to consider the phrase “keep Louisville weird.”

How do you remember the cheeseburger? Is it as one of those mama burgers filled with onions, bell peppers and all the other ingredients that mothers loved and you couldn’t stand? I remember telling my mother point-blank that the restaurants don’t serve them that way. Mom always insisted that hers were better but my regurgitive reflex seemed to disagree every time.

Or would it be from the voices of John Belushi, Dan Ackroyd and Bill Murray? Chee-boiga, chee-boiga, chee-boiga. That skit became firmly ingrained in the American consciousness in the 70s and early 80s.

Or would it be the purported “Birthplace of the Cheeseburger?” Kaelin’s Restaurant, 1801 Newburg Road, at the corner of Newburg Road and Speed Avenue? It lays claim to that title and has a complete history on how it was created.

At least two other restaurants say they were first, including Pasadena’s Rite Spot, where a 16-year-old Lionel Sternburger was said to have put cheese on a regular hamburger and called it a cheese hamburger, and Denver’s Humpty Dumpty Barrrel Drive-In, which trademarked the name “cheeseburger” a year after Kaelin’s introduced it by name on its menu. Both of those other “creators” have since gone belly up.

Back in March, Kaelin’s closed for renovations. A few days later the awful truth started to creep in. Now it’s June and Kaelin’s website no longer exists. The phone is disconnected. It seems that we’ve lost an historic Louisville institution.

My own personal experiences with Kaelin’s revolved around the cheeseburger. Sure they served other food, including fried green tomatoes, biscuit pudding and the like, but nothing matched the cheeseburger platter with fries and cole slaw. My wife and I frequented the restaurant in recent years because we were tired of waving (the famed sign, “If you Can’t Stop, Please Wave, is still there) so we stopped often. She would try various items on the menu, but for me it was cheeseburgers or nothing. It felt like consuming manna from the source.

And now, we are mourning the Holy Grail of Louisville food creativity. I mean, the hamburger didn’t NEED cheese, but Kaelin’s created a culinary masterpiece as well as an American icon. No, we didn’t need it, but boy, did we sure want it.

Here’s hoping that it comes back.

“We’re looking forward to welcoming loyal guests and meeting some new friends in New Albany,” says Schulz. “We believe this location will be more centrally located and more convenient to drop by and have some great barbecue.”

Mark’s Feed Store’s newest location will offer the same menu favorites and sauces, including the original sauce, red sauce and new hot sauce, that are found at other area locations. In total, Mark’s Feed Store now has four locations, including the Highlands, Middletown, and Dixie Highway, which are open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Popular items include the barbecue half chicken dinner with cole slaw, the pulled-pork sandwich (“world’s largest”) platter with spicy fries and fried corn on the cob, and the homemade buttermilk pie. If barbecue’s not your thing, there are other options available as well: a wild salmon burger, chunky chicken salad sandwich, and grilled veggie salad. Just like the Kentucky locations, the New Albany store will be a smoke-free environment.

by David Dominé, The Bluegrass Peasant

But last night was the end of the line for Park Place on Main and Browning’s, located at Slugger Field. Park Place, in particular, had been gaining acclaim and Chef Jay Denham one of the most recognized chefs in the city.

Here’s the release from the management:

LOUISVILLE, Ky. (October 11, 2008) – - Park Place Restaurant and Browning’s Restaurant and Brewery will officially close their doors this Saturday, Oct. 11 after dinner service.

“We have had many years of success,” said Susan Friedrich, general manager for both restaurants. “Although we have seen a steady increase in business, we feel the current state of our national economy will prove to prohibit the sustainability of our success. We are extremely grateful to all of our supporters and will miss them at our tables.”

Park Place Restaurant received rave reviews after opening in 2004. This fine dining restaurant established itself as one of the city’s top tables with farm fresh local ingredients and inventive dishes. Park Place has enjoyed many accolades including awards from AAA, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast.

Browning’s Restaurant and Brewery is an upscale gastropub with a similar philosophy of using fresh local ingredients. The brewing facility, housed within the restaurant, produces several brews including She Devil IPA and Bourbon Barrel Stout.

Park Place on Main and Browning’s are located at 401 E. Main Street.

Remembering Ferd’s- People are missing Ferd Grisanti’s, which closed 2 1/2 months ago. Well, they miss Ferd’s when it was actually good. The C-J’s Ron Mikulak has received an influx of mail regarding the late J-Town institution, including some recipes. [C-J]

International Fun- Louisville will once again be hosting the International WorldFest Labor Day Weekend at the Belvedere. The WorldFest will feature local ethnic restaurants and vendors, international music and plenty of chances to eat, shop and drink. Metro Government sets it all up.

A Versatile Soul- Soul food in the city? The new place is Versatile, on Baxter Avenue. Here’s a review from MetroMix.

The Greatest Sandwich of Them All- Critic Robin Garr took it upon himself to find the best BLT in the city, inviting four chefs to re-create the classic with their own unique style. Varanese chef Stephen Dennison was judged best, but, well, Garr seems to think there’s no such thing as a bad BLT. [LEO]

Volkfest is Not About Cars- Make sure your schedule’s clear for this Saturday, as the Volkfest invades Clay Street between Market and Main. German food, German music and of course lots of beer will be served on the closed-off street. The event is sponsored by BBC, O’Shea’s and the New Albanian Brewing Company. As a bonus, you can find out the winners of the 48-Hour Film Project.

Toast This: We all know that the weight of an out-of-towner’s opinion weighs heavily on our own view. That’s why consultants make so much money. We came across this ultra-positive review of Toast on Market from a traveling St. Louis couple.

Reviews: In the C-J, Marty Rosen tried the new Calabash seafood at Son of a Sailor in LaGrange.  In the Voice-Tribune, Steve Kaufman reminds us of the history of the cheeseburger at Kaelin’s. Here’s a C-J piece on Sitar, the new Indian place in the Highlands. I tried it recently with my son Nick, a vegeterian, who approved wholeheartedly. A secret no more, Kevin Gibson reviews Cafe Perrusa in J-town.

Moves: The Seelbach is going to be hiring soon. Three execs are in the process of opening a restaurant in the Atlanta airport called One Flew South.

Openings:  Another one of those buildings endlessly trying out restaurant concepts — 9501 Shelbyville Road — is making a comeback as Furlong’s, the same Louisiana-themed former hotspot on Frankfort Ave. The new Furlong’s occupies the building that once housed Frank’s and Garrett’s. Meanwhile, Quills is making a comeback somewhere on Baxter Ave., though its owner isn’t saying exactly where. In August, you should be able to get one of those amazing pizza pies from Impellizeri’s from its new location in Holiday Manor. That’s certainly an upgrade from the Pizza Hut that used to be there.  Something called the Ri Ra Irish Pub is coming to Fourth Street Live this fall, for those who want a chain version of Molly Malone’s or Irish Rover. The Connecticut-based chain takes the spot formerly occupied by Felt, where for about $20 you could play a round of pool.

Starbuck Update: We told you the Starbucks on Westport Road was on the closing list. Now the relatively new one on Poplar Level Road is closing up as well.

Capuccinos, Lattes and Mocha drinks will be on the menu,  and sure to be priced at a level to compete with coffee houses such as Starbucks and Heine Bros. McDonald’s thinks the new line of business will result in $1 billion in additional sales.

Meanwhile, Starbucks is staying silent about which of its stores will be closing. The Seattle-based company announced recently that it would close 600 stores, putting some 12,000 baristas out of work.

Fans of the Lentini’s Italian tradition in the Highlands have reason to get excited about the new Marcello’s, set to open in August on Bardstown Road.

Marcello Farham, the former executive chef of the now defunct Da Vinci’’s Ristorante by Lentini’’s Little Italy on Shelbyville Road, plans to offer a menu similar to Lentini’s, but at a much more appetizing price.

“”I want to bring affordable authentic Italian food to the people of the neighborhood and a place that is comfortable for families,”” said Farham, who on July 7 was busy working on the new location’s interior at the site, most recently the Diamante Bar & Grille.

The former Lentini’s building at 1543 Bardstown Road, just a mile north of the new location, now houses Jarfi’s Bistro.

Farham said the most recent owners of the latest Lentini’s venture — DaVinci’s on Shelbyville Road — closed due to high rent costs. So Marcello began planning his own restaurant in the Highlands.

While he still plans to serve homemade authentic Italian cuisine, the restaurant will have a much more casual atmosphere with affordable prices, ranging from $4 to $8 for lunch and dinner entrees starting at $7 and topping out at $19.

The extensive menu will include appetizers, salads, several pasta dishes, seafood and entrees, as well as daily specials. With a small kitchen and dining area, Farham says he plans to keep the décor simple and let the food speak for itself.

Stratto’s in Clarkesville closed on Easter Sunday, but will live on, sort-of, as a catering site for the Bristol Bar and Grille set to open in the same town later this year.

Editor Robin Garr reported BLUMediterranean Grille and Bar (in the Marriott downtown) has a new chef, Brian Hove, formerly of the Marriott Griffin Gate in Lexington. And if we needed more proof that chefs are much more than back-of-the-house hash slingers, the restaurant is smartly hosting a March 27 greet and eat event at which diners can say hello to Hove. Call 671-4285 for reservations.